Britta & Dane's Wedding

Last year around this time, I had the pleasure of printing my sister-in-law Britta's wedding invitations. She is such a creative person, so it was such fun working with her. Britta and Dane's invitation suite included an invitation, r.s.v.p. card, accommodations card, thank you notes, and a map. The map is my absolute favorite part of the entire suite. Britta hand drew everything--from the little icons to handwriting the names of the streets and labeling points of interest! I told her we should turn her handwriting into a font (I still think we should Britts!). I absolutely love Evanston, and I know it also holds a special place in Britta's and her family's hearts, so that made this map that much more fun to create.



Click on the map below to enlarge it so you can see the printing detail up close!
This set was printed on a 110lb. all cotton/tree-free paper in kelly green. I also printed the place cards and table number cards....I'll post those in the next few days, check back soon!





Shower Invitations Part Three: Printing (2 color)

In the first two posts about printing these lovely shower invitations, I showed the design process for creating plates for letterpress, as well as how ink is mixed. This post will show the nitty gritty of the actual printing.

First thing's first: You have to ink up the press. You take the ink you oh-so-carefully mixed. I ended up lightening my ink up with some opaque white to match Paper Source's "Pool."

I simply dab it across the rollers evenly. Then when I turn the press on, the distribution rollers (so appropriately named) distribute the ink very evenly onto all the rollers. I usually let that run for about a minute or so until the ink is nicely coated on the rollers. You can also see if you need to put a little more ink here or there to make it even.

Below is a little video so you can see how it's done. You'll notice that there was ink already on the rollers. I was re-inking. You have to do that from time to time as you print. That's why with letterpress, some prints end up a little lighter or darker than the next.

After the ink is distributed evenly along all rollers and before pulling that first print, you must ink the form (which, in this case, is the photopolymer plate with our image). You put the press in "trip" mode and run it once down the bed of the press and back and it coats the plate with a very thin layer of ink. You'll notice that the base onto which the plate is adhered is gridded--that makes it a lot easier to line everything up. This is especially important in this case, since I'm printing two colors.

After adjusting the height on the form rollers (more on that later), I'm ready to print my first color! You can see in the video below....

After I'm done printing all the prints I need of the first color, I have to clean off all the ink from the rollers. This can take quite a bit of time and is why printing a 2 color job is a lot more expensive than a one color job. You really have to make sure all the ink is cleaned off so as to not accidentally mix it in with your next color.

After the ink is completely cleaned off, you're ready for the second color, which means using the second plate. This is where the gridded base comes in really handy. Depending on what I'm printing, I have crop marks on my plates to help me with registration as I line up the plate for the second color.

Below is a video of how the second color is printed. After each piece is printed, all that's left is cutting. Oh and lining the envelopes, gluing, addressing......

As you'll see in the photos below, I also printed the return address on the outer envelope flap as well as a little box on the front of the envelope where I wrote the destination addresses. Those were all done in red. After I finished with the second color of the invitations themselves, I set the press up for the printing the envelopes.

Well, I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial. There are many little details involved in the actual printing process, but this gives a pretty general overview. Please feel free to comment or send me an email {ciao@fiorepress.com} if you have any questions!

Shower Invitations Part Two: Mixing Ink for Letterpress

In the last blog post, I showed you how I prepare files for letterpress printing. In this post, I'll take you through the steps to mix the ink needed to print. For letterpress, you have the choice between rubber-based and oil-based, as well as soy inks. I personally prefer rubber-based ink, but I know many printers that use other types of ink and are happy with what they use for various reasons.

In the photo below I have a picture of the envelope and the liner I cut out for these shower invitations. I am going to be using two colors for my invitations, a red and a pool-colored ink. I already have the red mixed up, so here I'm mixing up "pool."

The color I'm using is Pantone 7464. The Pantone guide gives me a formula (see photo below) of what colors I need to mix, along with their ratios. So if you look closely, I need mostly white with a little bit of blue, and a tiny bit of yellow with an even tinier bit of black. The ink is thick and goopy, and it takes a little while to work through, but I was really happy with how the color came out on the first try. I might add just a tad more white to lighten the color up a bit.


A few notes on mixing ink for letterpress:

1. The Pantone guides are printed offset, so the color "recipe" is going to come out about a shade darker than the swatch you pick. It's usually a good idea to mix a shade lighter, that way it comes out just right.

2. Also with letterpress, most of us mix ink by hand. Some people use a scale to measure the parts, some buy the ink pre-mixed, and some mix it up by eye. I just figure the ratios of the colors I need and go from there. I've always been happy (and so have my clients) with the way the colors turn out.

3. It's a lot easier to darken up your color than to lighten it, in my opinion. I find that if a color calls for mostly white (like in this example), I will start off with white and slowly add in the other colors. Otherwise, it can take up a LOT of white to lighten the ink.

Questions about any of these posts? Just leave a comment and ask!

Shower Invitations Part One: Design & Platemaking

Many people are seem so perplexed as to how this whole letterpress thing works, so I thought that with this next project I'm working on, I'd do a series of posts on each of the steps taken to make letterpress prints. In this instance, I'll be using shower invitations I've designed and I'm going to print for my sister-in-law's bridal shower.

The first part is all on the computer. Most of what I've done is custom work for things like weddings, showers and baby announcements. It's very important to get a good sense of what kind of style the client likes (as well as what they don't like). In this case, my sister-in-law has no choice, because I'm one of the people throwing the shower for her. HA! I have a feeling she'll like these. Sometimes I create my own artwork, and sometimes I buy art in vector format. Unlike clip art, buying artwork as vector art makes it possible for me to easily make changes to the art to suit the client's needs. I liked this little cake because it looks Swedish, and my in-laws are Swedish. I was able to then separate the cake and put the text in between. You can see here that this will be a two-color job:


Once the design is all set, I send the file off to get plates made. In letterpress, if you design something on the computer, one of the options you have is to get photopolymer plates made of your design. Without going into too much detail, it's a thick piece of plastic that has your raised design in reverse so that all you have to do is adhere it to a metal base which brings everything to the correct height for printing. However, since you can only print one color at a time with letterpress, you need to separate your colors before making your plates (ie two plates for two colors, etc.). So if you look at my design above, I need to separate all the blue from the red. When I print, I'll lay down the plate with the cake first and print that, then clean off all the ink from the rollers and lay down my second plate that has the text and print that in red. This is why it is a lot more expensive to have invitations printed with two colors instead of one. Laying down that second plate can be tricky because of registration. When I print wedding invitations, I always print crop marks (as you can see below) because not only does it tell me where to cut, it helps me with registration on the second color.


Below you will see what my file looks like when I'm ready to send it off to get the plates made. You'll see that I've ganged up some other images that I will cut out and use for the outer envelope and the back of the invite.

It should also be noted that it is possible to make your plates exactly how you will be printing them (without separating) and physically cut the plates with scissors. I opted not to do that in this case since the text and the layers of the cake were so tight. I didn't feel like I would have enough room to cut in between, so I thought I'd play it safe and separate the plates.

Below is a close up of those cute little birdies.....

Got questions? Leave a comment and I'd be happy to answer!

Christmas Cards

Here are some shots of Christmas cards I printed this year.

This card was printed on Crane's Lettra 110lb. cotton paper in a navy blue and a lighter blue. I printed the lighter blue first, but in retrospect I should've made the lighter blue even lighter because I think it makes the text a bit more difficult to read. Minor detail, really!

My favorite part (besides the cuties in the photo) was the envelopes. I made a little box for the addresses and you'll also notice that the snowflake design spills over onto the flap where the return address is.

And lastly, I actually printed my logo on the back of the card, which I rarely do. With letterpress, you have to be careful when printing on both sides. If you want a really deep impression, which is what everyone seems to want now, it will sort of "punch" through to the back side. I found a good balance with this card where I felt that I got a good impression and was still able to print that small logo on the back.

Overall, I love the way these turned out. Very crisp!